Crazy birders
Participants: Curtis Bentley and his daughter Sojourn, Paul Schwyzer, Ann, Lah, Love, Pla, Tu and Jan.
It seemed to be a lot of works in order to prepare the whole trip for nine persons. Actually Tu and I have planned this trip since December the previous year because at that time Air Asia had a big promotion "Zero Baht".
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Therefore, we thought that we’d love to go back to Borneo again and we persuaded our friends, Curtis's family from Maine (unfortunately Maya and Martha were very busy so they couldn't join us), Paul from Switzerland (now he lives in Bangkok with his family), and Thai friends, namely Ann (running computer and internet shops in Narathiwat), Lah (a birder who lives in Bangkok), Pla and Love (researchers at Klong Saeng and Hala Bala Wildlife Sanctuary and now studying in Had Yai).
Just before we're leaving to Borneo, there were two new guide books of Birds of Borneo coming out:
1. Phillipps' Field Guide of the Birds of Borneo: by Quentin Phillipps and Karen Phillipps.
2. A Field Guide to the Birds of Borneo: by Susan Myers and published by New Holland.
Thanks to Lah to let us know and she bought one for our group to use during the trip. We were looking forward for more new information. She also helped us to reserve the accommodation and package tour in Kinabatangan River.
Tu and I had one more friend to travel along with us. It's a rabbit doll called is "Ma-Prow", which means "Coconut". Ma-Prow had one friend; her name was "Me Too", belonging to Sojourn.
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Ma-Prow and Tu |
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Our itinerary:
Sep 30 To Kota Kinabalu
- Curtis and Sojourn flied from Maine to Kota Kinabalu.
- Ann, Pla and Love took a bus from Had Yai to Kuala Lumpur.
- Paul, Lah, Tu and I flied from Bangkok and met with Ann, Pla and Love at Kuala Lumpur airport and we took the same flight to Kota Kinabalu. Only Lah who booked the last flight of the day, followed us later.
Today, we were very happy to meet each other because it was so long time that we had no time to travel and birdwatch together. Tonight we stayed at Borneobackpacker in Kota Kinabalu town. It was a good place, clean, near shopping center, having free internet and simple breakfast. They also had airport pick up service if not later than 23.00 pm with minimum two nights stay. Lah arrived quite late so she had to stay at a guesthouse near the airport because the next day we planned to take a flight to Sandakan early in the morning. It was the first place that we started birding.
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Borneobackpacker |
Oct 1- 3 Sandakan
We arrived Sandakan airport early in the morning and took three taxis (more than four passengers were not allowed in a car) to RDC (Rainforest Discovery Center). After check-in the Sepilok B&B and had our breakfast, we started birding right away because our bungalow was very closed to the RDC. We could reach the place within 10 minutes by foot. RDC had many trails and a canopy walkway, a good place to look for Bornean Bristlehead, one of our target species. The Bristleheads liked to feed in high canopies sometimes at the treetops. So we went onto the canopy walkway every morning (from 6.00-8.00) and after that we separated to walk in the trails to search for some other species. If we were very lucky we could see the Bristlehead. We found Diard’s and Red-naped Trogons, a Bat Hawk perched on a tall tree all day waiting to catch bats in the evening, Yellow-rumped Flowerpeckers, Rufous-backed, Blue-eared, Rufous-collared, Rufous-backed and Banded Kingfishers (Bornean subspecies with black face), Raffle’s and Red-billed Malkohas, a Barred Eagle Owl, Rufous and Orange-backed Woodpeckers, Crimson sunbirds, Dusky Munias and many others.
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Rainforest Discovery Center |
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Banded Kingfisher |
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Orange-backed Woodpecker |
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| Rufous-collared Kingfisher |
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Rufous-backed Kingfisher |
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One morning, we met some birders from England; they came with our friend, CK Leong (a professional bird guide in Borneo). They were also waiting for the Bristlehead at the canopy walkway. CK said "It always come in this area around 7.30 - 8.00" but unfortunately not the day we were there ;-(
Finally everyone got a chance to see this famous bird from different places in the trails, except Tu and I!!!. That's a pity. Maybe this would be one reason we have to come back here again next time.
Another target was Urang Utan in the wild. The second afternoon whilst we were walking to RDC after having lunch at the guesthouse. Love, Pla, Lah and Ann started walking 5 minutes before us and were ahead of us, but then suddenly Love shouted to us because they found something special. Everyone ran...
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Canopy Walkway |
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It was an Urang Utan. He sat on the tree and fed on some fruits. All of us were very happy and we tried to take photos and videos. We spent long time with him. So we had short time to continue birding before dark. And this evening we planed to stay late after dark at the Watching Tower because there were some Red Giant Flying Squirrels coming out from a hole and gliding to find foods. It's a good chance to see them. Thanks a lot to Justin, a staff at our bungalow, who told us about that. |
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Urang Utan |
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Red Giant Flying Squirrel |
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Oct 4-6, Kinabatangun River
Here, we stayed at Nature Lodge, they had very good service to pick us up from the Sepilok B&B and stopped on the way to pick other guests by a clean and comfortable mini bus. After two hours from RDC we arrived the Kinabatangun River and took a small boat across the river to our resort. We mentioned to the resort that we were all birders and preferred to use a separate boat and guide from other visitors. It was because we would spend longer time to watch wildlife and it would make others feel bored being with us.
Nature Lodge Package and Program (we stayed here 4 days 3nights)
1st Day
4.00 pm After arrival, a boat trip for animal and bird watching
6.00 pm Back to the resort and took a rest
7.15 pm Dinner
8.30 pm Night walk
2nd day and continue like this for next extra day
6.00 am Boat trip
7.30 am Breakfast
9.00 am Jungle walk
12.30 pm Lunch
3.00 pm Boat trip
7.15 pm Dinner
8.30 pm Night walk
Last Day
6.00 am Boat trip
7.30 am Breakfast and prepare to leave the resort
Only in the first boat trip in the afternoon, we found Long-tailed Macaque, Silvered Langur, Bornean Gibbon, Proboscis Monkey and Urang Utan. And we found some birds; Strom’s Stork, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Wallace’s Hawk Eagle, Brahminy Kite, Little Green Pigeon, Oriental Darter, Oriental Pied Hornbill and many others. |
Boat Trip |
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| Proboscis Monkey |
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Storm's Stork |
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After watching Storm's Stork. |
During night walk we found Common Palm Civet, Rufous-backed Kingfisher, Malaysian Blue Flycatcher, a snake in a tree hole, Scorpion, a tree frog and the highlight was a Black-and-Crimson Pitta slept like a ball, we couldn’t see its head.
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A snake |
A tree frog |
Black-and-Crimson Pitta |
We did the same program everyday and always had time to take rest in the afternoon before boat trip. The resting time is a good time for us to do something different i.e. Sojourn taught us to play cards called "Dynamite and Boom!!" It's really fun!, we washed our cloths, read books, played magic with Sojourn and played Frisbee.
For playing Frisbee, we separated into two teams, one was Vietnam team because we were on Vietnam T-shirts which were souvenirs from Off and the other team was international team wearing T-shirts in different colors. It was very very fun! We played until we had to go for the boat trip in the afternoon. And after that if we had free time, Sojourn always liked to play Dynamite with some of us.
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Played cards with Sojourn |
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Normally we had another close friend; his name is "Off". He always traveled with us but this time he was very busy so he couldn't join us. He has just come back from Vietnam and he had T-shirts for all of us. Lah brought them for us. So this was a good time to take a group photo with his T-shirts to send to him later. |
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Oct 7-11 Mount Kinabalu
At the beginning, we planned to visit Mount Kinabalu first before we went to Sandakan. But since we would like to trek to the summit, we had to book accommodations at Laban Rata in advanced and they were available only on Oct 8. Therefore, we had to change our plan to visit Sandakan and Kinabatangun before Mount Kinabalu. Only six of us walked to the summit this time and it was the first time for Paul, Ann, Pla and Love but second time for Tu and me. Lah (who went up there before and said only one time was enough for her), Sojourn and Curtis birdwatched and traveled around the park. From last time (two years ago) Tu and I knew how difficult and hard to walk up the summit so we told everyone "you have to practice and exercise your body to prepare for walking up the highest mountain of Southeast Asia.” (Low’s Peak 4,095 meters from sea level). Actually Lah commented that it was the highest peak in S/E Asia that ordinary people could access to, but the highest one was actually in remote Myanmar northern mountains. Tu and I had our own target; we must spend less time to walk up and down compared to the last time (came down before 6.00 pm) and did not stay that long along the way.
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Rose Cabin |
Thank a lot to CK who reserved the room at Rose Cabin (about 2 kilometers outside the national park) for us and organized the transport from Kota Kinabalu to Mount Kinabalu. We stayed together in the big room for ten persons. When we arrived it was very cold and windy. We saw the summit covered with cloud, we hoped the day when we walked up to the summit it would be better and clearer sky.
Early in the morning on Oct 8, 6 of us prepared to walk up the summit and Lah sent us at the Timpohon gate (1,866 meters from sea level) and she continued birding in down the trail near the gate but Sojourn and Curtis had a good sleep at Rose Cabin.
Before we started walk up to the summit we stopped to take photos of the summit from the bottom at the HQ. We looked at Paul and thought that in some angles he looked like Richard Gear (Super Star). Pla kiddingly asked Paul “Are you Richard Gear?” and there was a group of three ladies in the area and problably heard what Pla said so they took Paul’s Photos too. ;-)
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Group photo before walking up the summit By Lha. |
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9.00 am We started walking with our guide. His name is Johan and we hired one porter named Pitta, to carry our stuff (sleeping bags, sweaters and some foods) about 10 kilograms.
12.40 pm We arrived Pondok Layang Layang, had a pack lunch from Sutera Sanctuary Lodges who organized the climb up to the summit trip for everyone. Paul found a pitcher plants having the same size as his hand. Beautiful one! We took some photos and continued walking.
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On the way |
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On the way and started to cold. |
17.00 pm We arrived Laban Rata resthouse. Paul who arrived the first person was really strong man. We waited at the Laban Rata restaurant for dinner before we went to sleep at our Gunting Lagadan Hut, locating 100 meters up the mountain from the restaurant. The outside was very cold and windy with a little bit of rains. At Laban Rata, there were also many sweaters for rent and only 10 RM per one for those who had not enough cloths. After dinner, we slept and kept energy for the next day.
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1.30 am Paul walked back to had early breakfast at Laban Rata alone and let our guide knew we waited at the Gunting Lagadan hut. Five of us had some cup noodles at the hut.
3.00 am Everything was ready. It looked quite late to start walking since other people normally started their walked at 2.00 a.m. in order to arrive the summit to catch a glimpse of beautiful sunrise. Ok..we kept walking and walking in the dark with our headlamps. This morning Paul had a headache (a little bit ?) and Tu also had strong headache, they took some medicines. Of course, Paul walked first and followed by Tu, after that Ann and I followed them and the last pair was Pla and Love. Love almost fainted! He stopped to have some chocolates. Pla felt like to give up walking so Love had to discuss and encourage her to walk again. Ann stopped to take some rests and chocolates along the way but I still had energy to take some photos of beautiful sunrise and sceneries on the way. Paul and Tu only kept walking. Finally everyone reached the summit of Low’s Peak at 6.50 a.m. |
Kept walking.... |
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| Beautiful sunrise! |
Almost reached the summit |
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| At the Low's Peak |
Three ladies with Low's Peak. |
Then we walked back down to Laban Rata to have full breakfast and continue walked down the mountain. It was more difficult than walking up. ;-) Who was the first one who arrived at the Timpohon Gate?...Sure it’s Paul. And he was really kind because he ran down the hill and hurried back to the HQ restaurant to reserve (late) lunch for us. (Sutera Sanctuary Lodge had one more meal for us in the climb-up package but the restaurant served lunch only to 2:30 p.m.). He had stood by the restaurant about 2.30 hours waiting for us. Tu and I arrived at the Timpohon gate at 3.45 p.m., ten minutes later Pla and Love arrived and the last of our group and the person for today was Ann ten minutes later. Then we went to see Paul directly and met Lah near the restaurant. We had a lot of stories from the mountain to tell Lah, Sojourn and Curtis.
During our walk up and down the summit, Lah went birding in several trails in the park. She saw a lot of mountain birds including a family of Red-breasted Partridges, Maroon Woodpecker, baby Snowy-browed Flycatcher Crimson-headed Partridges twice on different trails, and a pair of Bornean Stubtails.
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Identifying... |
For Sojourn and Curtis, they visited Poring hot spring and stopped on the way to see a large Rafflesia and Mersilau, where a lot of Pitcher Plants from the smallest to biggest ones could be observed in the trail.
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The next day after coming down from the top Love and Pla said goodbye. They went back to Thailand today. The rest of us did bird-watching around the national park. We found many good birds such as Bornean Forktail, Eyebrowed Jungle Flycatcher, Ruddy Cuckoo Dove, Bornean Whistler, Mountain Wren Babbler, Short-tailed Green Magpie, Indigo Flycatcher, Whitehead’s Spiderhunter, Golden-naped Barbet, and many others. And we found another squirrel was Whitehead’s Squirrel, a tiny squirrel with white tuft ears.
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Indigo Flycatcher |
Whitehead's Squirrel |
On Oct 11, we came back to stay overnight in the town at Borneobackpacker. Thank a lot to Ms Wong (The chief of Tabin) and Alixon (Secretary of Tabin) to offer us the great dinner on that day.
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Oct 12, Manukan Island
Early in the morning Sojourn and Curtis left very early to continue their diving trip at Sipadan Island area before flying back to Maine. And we had to say good-bye and we hope to see them again next trip. Thanks a lot to join our trip.
Our target at Manukan Island was Tabon Scrupfowl and CK told us “you can visit Manukan Island to search for it." At 8.00 a.m. we took a speed boat to the island. It was very beautiful island. After arrival we tried to find the bird until it was noon, |
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Took a speed boat to Manukan island |
Manukan island |
so we walked out to have our lunch. In the afternoon only Paul went in the jogging trail and tried to find it again but he couldn’t. ;-( In the evening we visited a shopping center to look for some souvenirs for our family and friends. Tonight Paul stayed alone at the Borneobackpacker because Ann, Lah, Tu and I took a night bus to Lahad Datu and met Paul at the Lahad Datu airport in the next morning. Bus station at Kota Kinabalu was very busy, a lot of people waited to take buses and many touts walked around and asked " where are you going?...where are you going?" .....
It took about 8 hours from Kota Kinabalu to Lahad Datu.
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Oct 13-15, Tabin Wildlife Reserve
We arrived Lahad Datu at 4:00 a.m. The bus dropped us not far from the airport. We walked to find some restaurants for drinks. We tried to order a cup of black coffee, two cups of tea tariks and a cup of local hot tea but when they served us we got something totally different from what we thought we ordered.!!! (Oh! This was a good chance to try something new!) So we should have learned how to speak in Malaysian language. Then we moved to wait for Paul at the airport. After Paul arriving, we proceeded to Tabin Wildlife Reserve by a minivan from Tabin. We bought the birding package of 3 days 2 nights but Paul stayed one more extra day before flying back to Bangkok. Tabin was the most luxury accommodation that we had ever stayed in Borneo. We had our own private rooms with air condition, hot shower and private balcony. It was very nice to stay in Tabin. Tu and I were very happy that we came back to visit Tabin again. We met our old friends like Maldin (now he changed his job from driver to be a guide of Tabin), Jody (guide also) and Jusrin (Maldin’s brother, he is driver) but many friends of us have already quitted Tabin. This time Maldin was our guide. |
Tabin Wildlife Resort |
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Daily, early in the morning, we had some breakfast and continued birding to and in Mud Volcano trail, came back to have lunch and then had free time to take a rest. We started again at 3.00 pm, jumped up the pick-up truck to birdwatch along the road from the resort to the entrance gate between oil palm plantations and forest. Before or after dinner (up to suitable time after sunset) we went on the truck for spot-lighting animals. |
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| Mud Volcano |
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Lha painted herself from the Mud Volcano. |
We found Bearded Pig, Leopard Cat, Common Palm Civet, Maley Civet (Paul saw it on the last night), Samba, Lesser and Greater Mouse Deers, Brown Wood Owl with a rat in his claw, Rhinoceros Hornbill and highlight was the Marbled Cat, thanks to Jody, he spotted it with another group in front of our car and he told us.
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Bearded Pig |
Marbled Cat By Paul |
Leopard Cat |
In fact, Tabin had a special place called Core Area. It was far from the resort about 10 kilometers but the road was under construction so we couldn’t go there.
On Oct 15, Ann, Lah, Tu and I said “Good Bye and see you in Thailand” to Paul, four of us headed to Jakarta and continued birding for one more week.
We had really great trip in Borneo, this was one of the best trip for us. Thanks a lot to everybody who made the trip be such a great time when we stayed together in Borneo.
Reported by Jan and added some by Lah
P.S. Paul enjoyed and was happy with his new digiscoping adapter. When we found some birds and they stayed long enough, everyone tried to take photos and many time when we were taking them, suddenly the birds flew away. Most of the time we saw Paul has just picked up his camera out from his bag at that moment. He didn't get any photo and the birds have always gone. We thought probably Bornean birds didn’t like Paul to take their photos. After same situations happened several times, before Paul picked up his camera out of the pocket he always said “Watch out! everyone...I’m picking up my camera" .....;-))....Just kidding! We like you very much, Paul |